Damaged Skin Care

Would you believe the desire to look good is as old as time itself? Down through the ages, both men and women have always found ways to enhance their physical appearance. As we all know, when we look good - we feel good.

In order to look good, we have taken advantages of advances in chemical research. Many ingredients we use in our products to help in our quest to look better, have cheap ingredients to assure uniform quality. Some popular ingredients in cosmetics are talc, probylene glycol and polyvinyl pyrrolidone. These are common raw materials in cosmetics manufactured in the United States today.

Now we are realizing that there side effects caused by some of these ingredients. Some of the side effects are far more significant than others. Talc is a particularly dangerous ingredient, considered to be a carcinogen and is associated with ovarian cancer. My sister-in-law used the femine hygiene sprays for years only to find out talc was one of the main ingredients. She was diagnosed with ovarian cancer 5 months ago. She truly believes the cancer is a result of having used these sprays for many years.

Some of the other ingredients mentioned above are thought to cause kidney and liver damage as well as birth defects and allergies with long term use. Not good since we use these products on our skin daily.

So, what are we to do, resign ourselves to walking around all natural, with no enhancements? Please, say it isn’t so!

Enter the resurgence of mineral cosmetics. I say resurgence because they were using minerals as enhancements back in time of ancient Egypt.

Minerals are trace elements which need to be replenished daily to keep the body healthy. Some common examples would be zinc, selenium, magnesium and titanium. Minerals play a vital role with helping blood circulation, boosting brain performance as well as improving muscle tone and keeping eyes and skin healthy.

Some of today’s cosmetic manufacturers have realized the benefit of offering make up containing minerals. This makeup is safe on the skin so there typically are no issues with sensitive skin. Also, mineral makeup can boost antioxidant activity and offer natural sunscreen protection.

Grandma was right. You need your minerals! However, I’ll bet she never thought you would be getting them from your makeup!

Researchers have just stumbled on the fact that caffeine in mice has proven to get rid of sun damaged skin cells before they become dangerous. Before you get too excited about this to justify your morning cup of coffee, let’s delve into it a little more deeply. After all, according to some, caffeine is the worlds most prevalent drug!

However, researchers are finding that the presence of caffeine is giving the mice they are testing, a better shot at getting rid of damaged skin cells over-exposed to sunlight! From several types of experiments the researchers have done, the caffeine can selectively kill those damaged cells.

When skin is exposed to even moderate amounts of sunlight, there is damage and most of it is repaired very quickly. But, some cells are too damaged to be repaired and they are killed before they can cause any problems. It appears, at least in these mice, the rate of skin cancer caused by sun damage can be decreased.

Here is how it works. A team of researchers exposed hairless mice to a medium dose of ultra-violet light. Afterwards, one group had a solution put on the skin that contained caffeine while a control group had a solution applied without caffeine. As a further control, other mice received the caffeine or non-caffeine treatments without any ultra violet light exposure. The amount of caffeine is sililiar to the caffeine already present in anti-cellulite creams, about one percent. The Doctor spear heading the team said that the results more than doubled the number of these damaged cells that were deleted…and that also correlated with fewer changes, long-term changes, such as wrinkling.

This doctor wrote in the journal, “Cancer Research” that caffeine appears to inhibit a protein called ATR. This protein helps make sure that a cell’s DNA is copied correctly. If it’s inhibited, normal cells are okay but cancer cells are selectively killed. This, is a very good thing!

Bear in mind, the research thus far is just in mice. No one should head to the beach with their favorite coffee in tow for sunscreen. The next step in the research will be to work with mice that are genetically predisposed to skin cancers to see if they are responsive to the caffeine.

The purpose of this doctor’s research is not about finding a cure for sun induced wrinkling but is fundamental research about the cell cycle in cancer. That means he hopes to find even better cancer inhibitors than caffeine, but, his team also wants to study if this could be useful in humans directly as caffeine. One way that could be interesting is to utilize caffeine as a sunscreen agent. Caffeine itself has the capacity to block ultra violet rays and could be incorporated into sun screens.

According to the doctor, this discovery was an accident which had its origins in research into the health properties of green tea. As far back as 2001 it was being said that the importance of green tea was the caffeine. While exploring this, they stumbled on the caffeine-ATR connection. They reported their finding in the April 2008 issue of the “Cancer Research” journal.

So, if coffee or tea is near and dear to you, it may be proven in the near future, that some good benefit could be derived from drinking it. Guess we’ll just have to wait for further research before claiming caffeine is a “health” drink!

We’ve talked about facials now I’d like to talk about facial peels. You may have heard the term “chemical facial peel”. The facial peels we do at Fantasia are “light chemical peels”. It is a treatment similar to a facial yet different.

Candidates for a light chemical peels would be those with problematic skin, sensitive skin, aging skin, hyperpigmentation, or photodamaged skin. The purpose of a chemical peel is to remove blemished, damaged skin. The damage can be from many things such as acne, sun damage, freckles and signs of aging including fine lines and wrinkles.

AHA or Alpha Hydroxy Acids are the mildest of all peels. The AHA that we use, SkinCeuticals products, are combined with glycolic and lactic acid or salicylic and mandelic acid. SkinCeuticals gel formulations ensures maximum acid delivery to target areas.

The 20 percent glycolic/10 percent lactic mixture offers the following benefits:

• provides superior exfoliation due to glycolic acid
• improves hydration due to lactic acid stimulating glycosaminoglycans production in the epidermal and dermal levels
• is less irritating than a pure glycolic peel
• improves collagen synthesis and remodels existing collagen
• improves elastin fibers in dermis
• encourages cell renewal
• improves the appearance of skin discolorations by dispersing melanin granules more evenly in the epidermis
• increases ceramide levels in the stratum corneum

The 20 percent salicylic/10 percent mandelic mixture provides the following benefits:

• dissolves sebum and cellular debris in pores due to lipid-solubility of salicylic acid
• exfoliates skin without irritating
• improves collagen synthesis and remodels existing collagen
• improves elastin fibers in dermis
• encourages cell renewal
• improves the appearance of skin discolorations by dispersing melanin granules more evenly in the epidermis
• increases ceramid levels in stratum corneum

The base ingredients in both of these gels is a Mediterranean fruit vinegar (a complex of apple vinegar and apricot and peach extracts) which supplies citric and malic acid to enhance exfoliation capabilities, softens and invigorates skin and has anti-bacterial properties.

In discussing facials, we mentioned that you should have them every six weeks or perhaps seasonally. With regard to light chemical peels which have the benefit of not causing the client any down time or irritation, it will depend on the condition being treated and the skin type. Weekly applications are typically recommended and a series of 6 peels will achieve significant skin improvement. Again, your esthetician will work with you based on your budget and unique skin care needs.

You should know that complications from light chemical peels are extremely rare. Possible complications during the peel may inculde intense burning, erythema, headache or nausea.

We have an esthetician on staff at Fantasia who would love to discuss the different procedures with you, whether you are thinking about facials, chemical peels or microdermabrasion. If you feel you are looking old and tired, we have a solution for you!

I used to ask this question until I had a facial myself. Anyone who’s every gone for a professional facial would agree that they are pretty great. Obviously how much you enjoy your facial will be determined by the esthetician and the products she uses. At Fantasia, because SkinCeuticals is the skin care we promote, our esthetician uses these professional products on the clients having facials.

Other than just being good for your skin, a facial is a great way to chill out and relax. And after you have relaxed and hopefully let go of stress, you will leave the salon with glowing skin. Your skin will feel so good in fact, that you will not want to put make up on. This is one reason I prefer to have a facial late in the day. I just hate to put anything on my glowing, clean, hydrated skin!

At Fantasia, our facials are European Facials. These relaxing treatments take approximately one hour and there are several aspects to the treatment. Your esthetician will begin with deep cleansing of the skin. Next she will perform a skin analysis on you followed by exfoliation. If needed, she will do extractions for you. This is followed by a relaxing massage of the face, decolletage area and shoulders. She will then apply a soothing mask and after removal of the mask she will hydrate your skin.

One might think suffering through the extraction phase of the facial would be nasty but, if performed correctly, it is not that unpleasant. It is necessary that extractions be done to prevent spots (blackheads) from getting worse but it is best left to a professional as doing it yourself can break the skin and end up making things worse.

Probably one of the best parts of having a facial is the massage as mentioned above. This is the part of the experience where you can relax and truly enjoy being pampered. This amazing super calming feeling is just a side benefit of the facial massage as it’s main purpose is to increase blood circulation which, in turn, plumps the skin and helps you achieve that healthy glow.

Just when and how often you need a facial really depends on your budget. In talking with the esthetician at Fantasia, she suggest that you begin having facials in your mid twenties and suggest a routine of once every six weeks. If this is not do-able, you could have them seasonally. Many women do this because with the changes of the seasons can come skin changes. Everyone’s skin is different and your esthetician can work with you to customize a program suited to your needs.

A good esthetician will tell you what products she is using on your face. You will not be pressured to buy products, at least not at Fantasia. If you have indicated to your esthetician that you would like to see a change in some facet of your skin, whether it’s less break outs, better hydration, fewer lines, reduction in sun damage, etc, she can act as your partner in helping you to achieve your goals. If you truly want to see a difference in your skin, you will have to participate by taking care of it with a daily home regimen. Fantasia recommends SkinCeuticals products and will educate you as to how to use them.

If you have a special occasion coming up such as birthday, anniversary, holiday- ask for a gift card from Fantasia or a salon where you can treat yourself to a facial. You will be glad you did!

There are many things you can do to have clearer, fresher and younger skin. Let’s talk about a few of them. Most good skin care lines have products which address skin issues such as acne. Salicylic acid and glycolic acid are good ingredients to look for. Salicylic acid has an antibacterial effect and glycolic acid has an exfoliating effect. Obviously if you have severe acne you should see a dermatologist. There are different types of acne which would be treated differently. For example, sulfur, benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid can work wonders on cystic acne, underground pimples respond better to a warm compress which will stimulate blood flow, bringing them to a head, allowing them to open or speed the body’s ability to heal and reabsorb.

There are supplements which are wonderful for the skin such as beta-carotene. This is high in vitamin A, a super exfoliator and antioxidant that turns skin cells over rapidly. For those with mild acne not interested in taking Accutane (known to cause birth defects,) beta-carotene is a great alternative.

Sometimes when blemishes finally clear, the skin is red and irritated and occasionally brown spots will appear. Look for moisturizers for sensitive skin to reduce redness. If the redness is really pronounced, you may want to think about laser treatments to target broken capillaries. You will need at least three treatments which could cost $400. each.

To diminish brown spots, it’s best to look for botanical based lighteners so as not to irritate the skin. Most of these products will have a pigment-producing enzyme called tyrosinase which are gentler than those containing hydroquinone, another option.

If you are dealing with keratosis polaris, those ugly red bumps on the backs of arms and thighs, use a moisturizer with at least 15 percent glycolic acid. If you have seriously dry skin, try an emollient formula. Another tip for seriously dry skin, consider supplementing your diet with fish oil. Fish oil will help moisturize your skin from the inside out in addition to providing many other health benefits.

For younger skin, we all know about being sunscreen-savy. Nothing, however, is going to protect you 100 percent. For extra defense, layer an antixoidant serum such as SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic Serum under your sunscreen every morning. Studies have shown that this combination produces significant improvement in fine lines, inflammation (redness) and hyperpigmentation.

There are products which can help undo sun damage to a degree. They stimulate your immune system to attack the diseased cells. If you have serious issues, you may need a prescription cream such as Aldara. For more minor symptoms, you can use a retinoid cream to take care of the fine lines around your eyes and mouth, the brown spots and the rough skin texture. And as we have discussed in several post, there are wonderful non-surgical solutions such as Microdermabrasion and Facial Sculpting.

Can we turn off cancer genes? New research suggest that the polyphenols in brown algae may help repair sun damage and prevent skin cancer. To add them to your diet, you can order a mixed seaweed salad from your favorite Japanese restaurant. In order for the seaweed properties to remain stable, it is best eaten raw.

Another secret to look younger is to brighten your eyes. Vascular dark circles, the kind resulting from blood vessels underneath thin skin, can be camouflaged with concealer. If you are really bothered with this, some dermatologist offices offer Restylane injections to hide the dark circles. If you are afraid of needles, there are hydrating creams and serums with water-binding ingredients such as collagen and hyaluronic acid. These can temporarily plump up the skin to mask blood vessels. If puffiness is a problem for you, try smoothing an algae mask over the area which can stimulate your skin cells to eliminate excess fluid.

There are many products to apply topically to assist you in having clearer, fresher and younger skin. However, diet and nutrition are equally important. At Fantasia, we promote SkinCeuticals Skin Care products to assist you topically and Isagenix Supplements to help with your diet as we feel both areas are necessary.

Alright, we’ve discussed how we should be taking care of our skin in our 20s and 30s so that in our 40s we are actually looking pretty good! Now let’s talk about what we can do to keep looking good as we age gracefully!

In your 40s the lines of movement between your brows and around you eyes and mouth don’t just disappear as they did in your 30s. What’s going on is hormonal changes, your estrogen level is tapering off so your skin becomes dryer. You will need to add moisture and collagen building ingredients such as peptides. Once again, a good protocol begins with a basic non-drying cleanser used in combination with some exfoliating to remove the dead skin cells. Because you are now using retinol regularly, you will need to get rid of any flaking skin.

Retinoids and peptides are two ingredient groups you should add into your routine if you haven’t already done so. Peptides can help rebuild collagen, especially when used in combination with skin texture-improving retinoids like retinol. You can opt for a serum as we discussed before, such as SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic Serum.

Your mantra in your 50s should be moisturize, moisturize, moisturize! And, did I say moisturize? Loss of tone and sagging are your biggest issues now and creams and serums can only do so much. If you are looking for more dramatic results, use powerful products containing peptides, retinoids, alpha hydroxy and amino acids, and, you may be interested in some non-surgical alternatives such as microdermabrasion or facial sculpting. At Fantasia, we are always researching non-surgical solutions for you to keep you looking “youthful”.

An ideal cleanser for your age group would be a creamy cleanser which will hydrate while it cleanses. SkinCeuticals Cleansing Cream would be an excellent choice. You should choose a moisturizing cream that contains SPF to keep skin hydrated and protected. Because some ingredients such as retinoids can make skin more sensitive, daily use of sunscreen is a must.

Apply a peptide rich serum under your sunscreen to help build collagen. As previously mentioned, look for one that also contains antioxidants to fight free readicals or hyaluronic acid to lock in moisture. SkinCeuticals has some excellent serums. We’ve talked about the C + E, however, there is also Serum 20, C + AHA and Serum 15. I would recommend you talk with your dermatologist or Fantasia’s Esthetician for more information about these incredible products.

Make sure you have a good nighttime moisturizer. Remember, in your 50s and beyond it’s moisturize, moisturize, moisturize. Do not be stingy with your moisturizer!

Actually, unless some new innovative products come along, and they probably will as the Baby Boomers are fighting  the aging process kicking and screaming, the regimen you have in place in your 50s will serve you well for the rest of your life. You can’t stop the aging process, but you can minimize it’s effects!

Most of us never start any kind of skin care until we begin seeing things in the mirror which disturb us. Perhaps you were fortunate to have a mother with beautiful skin who passed along her secrets. Better still, perhaps you were wise enough to listen to what she had to say.

As you age, your skin care protocol will change, at least it should change and evolve. Obviously a 20 year old skin needs far less maintenance than  50 year old skin. Typically in your 20s, the issues you are most likely to face are some acne and some discoloration from sun damage. The most important thing you can do is protect your skin with sunscreen, daily. And, don’t neglect your neck, chest and hands along with your face. A good regimen to follow in your 20s would be to use a light moisturizer containing sunscreen which provides UVA and UVB protection. Chose a product containing zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. Remember, sun can cause premature aging and you don’t need to look like you are 40 something in your 20s!

If you are one to stay up all hours of the night drinking, smoking, partying, you should be aware that it will take its toll on your face (skin). You may want to kick start your anti-aging program now by applying a serum at night that contains Vitamin C. SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic Serum would be an excellent choice for you as it will help fight the free radical damage your lifestyle is causing. You will also need a good light moisturizer.

In your 30s, you may still be dealing with discoloration caused by sun damage or melasma (which is caused by birth control). Both are big skin care challenges. Now is a good time to start exfoliating regularly because skin only exfoliates naturally every 35 days as opposed to every 14 days as it was doing when you were in your 20s. A good regime at this stage of your life would begin with a good cleanser. If you were using a foaming cleanser in your 20s, you may want to switch to a non-foaming, non-drying cleanser. You should use a daytime moisturizer before applying your sunscreen product. Preferably use one containing antioxidants as there are studies suggesting that antioxidants act synergistically with the sunblock to help guard against photodamage. And, this can correct “old” damage!

Add a retinoid such as SkinCeuticals Retinol to help improve the overall texture and tone of your skin. The highest strengths of retinoids are prescription only, but, unless you have some major issues and are working with a dermatologist, the over the counter will be a good close second. Retinoids are applied at night, and caution- do not apply them to your upper eyelids as they will be too irritating.

If you feel like your skin doesn’t need additional moisture after applying the retinoid, use a basic moisturizer that does not contain additional retinol. No need to “over treat” your skin.

So, we’ve talked about the 20s and the 30’s. If every woman followed the above discussed protocols, they would look alot better in their 40s, 50s and beyond. We will talk about these age groups in our next post!

You already know Fantasia is excited about SkinCeuticals Skin Care line. We could tell the product ingredients were superb without knowing anything about the science behind them. It’s always great when you find a product that looks and sounds good and has the science behind it. We’d like to talk a bit about the company and it’s philosophies.

SkinCeuticals was founded in 1994, and as we have discussed, they have innovative dermatology products designed to improve the overall health and appearance of the skin. The company’s goal was to create and market innovative products backed by science. They have been careful to devote significant resources toward careful controlled and peer-reviewed research in support of the technology behind the products. SkinCeuticals is committed to clinical research, product development, and education to promote complete skin care solutions. (At Fantasia, we like this because we are all about solutions. Solutions for thinning hair and hair loss as well as solutions for damaged and aging skin.)

Here’s what dermatologist are saying: SkinCeuticals has a great product lineup. The products are pleasant and even elegant. There are three SkinCeuticals product classes that stand out as an exceptional amongst an impressive overall lineup. Vitamin C products, broad spectrum sunblocks and phyto skin lighteners which are rich in botanicals are areas in which SkinCeuticals truly excels.

SkinCeuticals topical vitamin C products comprise an innovative skin care line featuring stabilized L-ascorbic acid at a low pH. We all know that vitamin C products like SkinCeuticals are supposed to visibly improve skin clarity, tone and texture as well as minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, leaving the skin with a firmer, smoother, younger looking appearance.

Peer-reviewed clinical studies have shown that in order to be effective, a vitamin C formulation must contain stable, acid pH, L-ascorbic acid of at least 10% concentration. SkinCeuticals topical vitamin-C products feature the Duke University-patented technology for stable L-ascorbic acid, in concentrations ranging from five (for around the eyes)to fifteen percent, in cosmetically-elegant formulations.

SkinCeuticals sun protection products contain Z-Cote, a form of micro fine, transparent zinc oxide which provides true broad spectrum UVA/UVB protection. These sunscreens are cosmetically elegant and perfect for use under makeup or other cosmetics. SkinCeuticals are really among the best we’ve seen. The products are quite elegant, the packaging is awesome and the price is reasonable.

So, it’s not just Fantasia. If you are seeing a dermatologist for whatever reason, be sure to ask about SkinCeuticals. At least ask if they are familiar with the products and what they think.

Okay, I’ll bear my soul on this one. I never used to use toner, actually thought it was a waste, just something extra the company was trying to sell me to make more money off of me. I’m sure you have never had those thoughts. I mean I would buy the cleanser and moisturizer and skip the toner, even though the sales person would do their best to convince me I really should also buy the toner. So why would we want to use toner anyway?

Well, it is important we use a good skin care line including the toner!   And, if you recall from a previous post, we talked about the importance of sticking with one product line as the manufactures formulate the products to work together synergistically.  So, back to the toner, toner can help to balance, refresh and restore the skin’s protective pH mantle while removing residue. And if it’s SkinCeuticals Toner with hydroxy acids, it will help exfoliate dead skin cells while the botanical extracts such as witch hazel, rosemary, aloe and chamomile soften, soothe, and tone the skin.

So, you can see it’s something very necessary in a good skin care regimen. In fact, these days I can’t imagine not using it. I never realized that it takes more than just a good cleanser to really get the skin clean. And, it’s so soothing and refreshing for the skin.

I want to talk more specifically about some of the ingredients SkinCeuticals uses in their Equalizing Toner:

Witch Hazel extract which is credited with anti-inflammatory and wound healing properties as well as anti-itching softening and emollient properties and, it is effective against free radicals.

Aloe barbadensis gel which is an emollient with skin softening, healing and anti-inflammatory properties. Aloe has widely recognized moisturizing abilities and is beneficial for sunburned or sun-exposed skin. And aloe barbadensis is known to have synergistic effects which used in conjunction with other anti-inflammatory substances.

Rosemary Extract is said to have astringent, toning, stimulating, deodorant, antiseptic reactivating, anti-bacterial, softening and invigorating properties.

Thyme is antiseptic, tonic, anti-bacterial, deodorizing, fungicidal, circulation stimulating, soothing and healing. The active ingredient in thyme is thymol acid which has disinfectant properties similar to carbolic acid.

Wow! I get turned on just writing about this stuff much less using it because of the quality ingredients. If you are a baby boomer (or not) like I am and want only the best to put on your skin, because we know what we put on our skin, gets in our body, you will love SkinCeuticals! Perhaps you are beginning to understand why Fantasia is thrilled to carry the SkinCeuticals skin care product line.

SkinCeuticals gives you four options for cleansers and all are great. Most product lines offer one or two at the most. SkinCeuticals Simply Clean is for oily skin or acne, Cleansing is for normal to dry skin, the Gentle Cleanser is for every skin type and can be used several times per day; and the Foaming Cleanser is for all skin types and is a deep cleanser.

All of the cleansers contain botanicals and, with the exception of the gentle cleanser which contains orange oil, are oil free. The ingredients in all of the cleansers are wonderful, let me list a few: aloe gel, chamomile extract, comfrey extract, ginsing extract, yarrow extract, allantoin, orange oil, extract or arnica, extract of ivy, extract of cucumber, extract of mallow and extract of lime tree. If you are thinking it sounds like a healthy salad, you are right. All good things to nourish the skin!  Remember our previous discussions about the importance of good nutrients for your skin?  SkinCeuticals certainly fits in with that philosophy!

Two of the cleansers, the Simply Clean and the Cleansing Cream, contain mixed hydroxy acids (glycolic, citric, malic, tartaric and lactic). Let’s talk about some of the benefits of these hydroxy acids. They exfoliate the skin and soften it, they aid in diminishing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, decrease the appearance of hyperpigmentaion, reduce cornecyte cohesion and corneum layer thickening where excess dead skin cells accumulate, improve skin hydration, functions as an astringent, has antioxident properties (from citrus fruits, apples and cherries) and, these acids increase water-holding capacity. So, while you may think of “acid” as a bad thing, hydroxy acids are a very good thing for your skin!

I doubt we need to discuss the importance of a good cleanser for the skin. If you wear makeup, and the majority of women do, it’s imperative you cleanse your skin daily! I’ve always been a fanatic about washing my face before bed and could never relate to sleeping with makeup on but I’m told that many women do it! Even if you are one of the rare few who don’t wear makeup, you need to cleanse your face if you go outside. There are things in our environment which end up on our skin. So, enough said, you need a good cleanser for your face.

If you are looking for a good skin care line which focuses on natural ingredients, seriously consider SkinCeuticals. There are many benefits to the SkinCeuticals line, too numerous to mention here. If you have questions, we would be happy to answer them for you, feel free to call and speak with our Esthetician.